Thanks to its water reserves and strategic location, Bolsena has been inhabited since the Bronze Age and is primarily renowned for its Etruscan settlement.

Can We Eat Yet?

The most popular spot to find yourself on a weekend night is surely Retro Gusto di Roberta Perosillo. Filled from floor to ceiling with local confections, Retro Gusto’s main catch is its pay-by-the-pound plates of locally sourced artisan cheeses, cured meats, and bottles of wine to wash it down.

Every Saturday night, live music flows through a crowd of hungry customers chattering amongst friends. Roberta floats between guests as she entertains regulars and pours local wine at the bar.

Most of the wine comes from friends in the industry who live throughout Tuscia. The styles vary across the spectrum of natural and traditionally made wine. The unifying feature is that almost all are made locally and with care to support the winemaker.

Warm, friendly, and always delicious, Retro Gusto is the type of classic Italian deli I always imagined myself frequenting before I moved to Italy.

If you’re craving flavors that hit a little closer to home, Pizzeria Tanaquilla has the best pizza in town. Pub-style food is served in a tavern and summer Biergarten with Belgian beer on tap. It’s a hangout presumably designed with the summering Northern Europeans in mind.

Spots like this become harder to find the further south you go into the Italian countryside. Tanaquilla quenches the thirst of those dried up from wine and craving small comforts of home.

Bolsena might be one of my favorite places to spend an afternoon in Tuscia. Vast blue waters almost trick one into believing they’ve made it to the Mediterranean coastline. But the air is a little bit fresher and the pace a little less chaotic. Although popular for those in the know, Bolsena never feels overly crowded the way some Italian villages do. I’d argue that this helps retain so much of the charm

One evening is all it takes to imagine why the town has been a coveted destination for over a millennium.

All photographs by Alyssa Richter. Used with permission.

Perhaps by now it’s no secret that Umbria is one of Italy’s sacred gems. Literally within the heart of Italy, right in the center, Umbria is a land of rolling hills, quaint towns, and slow-moving people. Often overshadowed by its powerful neighbors like Florence and Rome, only in the past few decades has Umbria become a region sought after on its own terms.

One of Umbria’s most astounding cities is Orvieto. A city on a hill, the spectacular town is believed to be the ancient Etruscan site of Velzna, Latinized to Volsinii in Roman times. Once a major center of wealth and culture in Etruria, Volsinii’s official location is disputed. However, many believe it to be the modern-day Orvieto, crediting archeological evidence and geographical placement.

The city center rises above the ground on a tuff hill, a type of volcanic ash weathered into soil over a span of centuries. The most notable structure is the Orvieto Cathedral that towers above the quintessential medieval town like a catholic castle. It easily rivals the Florence Duomo in beauty and grandeur.

Soft beauty contrasts this architectural giant in hidden streets overflowing with flowering trees and stone walls that hide grand villas. While strolling, you might be caught off guard by a sudden panorama of the Umbrian countryside, which encompasses the rock from every side.

Walking Orvieto, I often find myself imagining that I’ve been planted into a romantic fairytale from a different era.

Let’s See the City

The Duomo

Many prominent sculptors and artists contributed to the Duomo’s construction. Most notable is Lorenzo Maitani, credited as the cathedral’s primary architect. It’s easy to spot similarities between the Orvieto Cathedral and those of Florence and Sienna. Many of the architects, sculptors, and Masters of the Works had previously worked on the duomos for Florence and Sienna. Their influence, therefore, completes a theme across north-central Italian architecture, making a blueprint for Renaisance design.

At sunset, the intricately laid gold and stained glass reliefs glitter against the waning rays. Even from miles away, you can glimpse the bright cathedral shining in the last lights of day.

The reason for commissioning such an imposing religious structure is due to the religious relic housed within it. In 1263, a priest pondered the validity of transubstantiation, otherwise known as the transformation that occurs during communion. The bread becomes the Body of Christ, and the wine, the Blood of Christ. As the priest doubted the ritual’s literal meaning, the sacramental bread began to bleed with the Blood of Christ, staining the cloth it sat on.

This cloth, known as a corporal, was taken to the Pope at Orvieto, where the incident was heralded as the Miracle of Bolsena. The sacred corporal is preserved within the Chapel of the Corporal on the north side of the church.

To the left, you’ll enter the Chapel of the Madonna di San Brizio, a bright room featuring a multitude of religious reliefs by Luca Signorelli, which depict scenes from Revelation. These include The Preaching of the Antichrist, End of the World, and the Resurrection of the Flesh.

The Underground

A ticket to the Duomo includes access to the Orvieto Underground. Being set upon a volcanic cliff presents some challenges to expanding for storage and waste. The solution often found is to carve caves out of the malleable soil. Thus, there exists a vast cave network beneath the city’s surface dating back from Etruscan times, to medieval, to the recent past. Even today, the people of Orvieto use caves beneath the city as storage.

Mercato di Piazza del Popolo

Between 8 am and 1 pm, every Thursday and Saturday, you’ll find the city bustling with buyers and sellers at Orvieto’s farmers’ market. Artisans and farmers unite to sell their wares beneath the Palazzo Del Capitano Del Popolo.

It’s a great place to purchase seasonal produce and handmade jewelry to remember Tusica by.

Time to Eat!

Bars, Cafes, and Restaurants

Caffè Montanucci

Known as one of the best cafes in Umbria, Montanucci serves up a fresh breakfast of housemade pastries. My personal favorite is the pasticiotto topped with in-house amarena cherries.

At lunchtime, take your pick of ready-made plates typical of an Italian bar. It’s common to find insalata di couscous, panzanella, and verdure al forno.

Caffè del Teatro

A quaint theater cafe, part of the Teatro Manicelli. The spot is charming enough to stand out against the more standard bars while remaining within a comparable price range for classic coffee and cocktails.

The gentle breeze that flows through the loggia adds to the allure during hot summer months, while the slight elevation above the street makes for optimal people watching.

FE3.0

One of the few dining restaurants that serves real food between Italian lunch and dinner hours. Typically, restaurants close between 2:30 pm and 7:30 pm.

Designed as the Italian answer to a gastropub, FE3.0 serves craft beer, big burgers, and upscale American bar favorites.

Bottega Vera

You’ll pass several shops while walking along the main road to the Duomo. One of the most notable is the Bottega Vera, a two-room enoteca-deli combo perfect for a light aperitivo.

Bottega Vera is the best place to pop into for local wines from Orvieto. Other notable tastings include popular wines from countryside neighbors that include Montefalco, Maremma, and Chianti.

Enoteca Barberani

Cantina Barberani is established as one of the best examples of high-quality Orvieto wine. While their actual cantina requires a car to reach, the enoteca sits just in front of the cathedral.

Barberani makes their organic-certified wine using biodynamic practices. This translates to “natural wine” made with considerable attention to environmental regeneration. Spontaneous fermentation gives the wine a vibrancy that you don’t typically taste in wines from the area.

Ristorante Il Cocco

A small, family-owned restaurant that serves classic dishes from the region. Ask for their seasonal offerings featuring regional produce and local specialties like umbricelli al tartufo or scafata di fave. The chef makes the best bacala all’orvieto (cod fish cooked with tomatoes, pine nuts, and golden raisins) I’ve yet to try.

Order a regional white like Grechetto to satiate every dish.

Arso

As one of the more recently opened restaurants, Arso welcomes a modern dining climate that preserves the traditional farm-to-table philosophy. In a town known for its love of the past, Arso’s chef and founder, Tommaso Tonioni, turns the rural table into a gastronomic design.

Ethically sourced prime cuts and seasonal produce fill the menu, ensuring that sustainable cuisine remains the focus of this culinary project.

Ready to explore Orvieto on your own?

All photographs by Alyssa Richter. Used with permission.

As a country that’s overflowing with fresh, seasonally available produce, I find it a shame that most people are unaware of how many light, vegetarian dishes Italy provides. What’s marketed in the standard restaurant is a cuisine of carbs and animal products. But it’s far from all the country’s world-famous gastronomy has to offer.

Central Italy maintains a strong culture of foraging for food.

Spring is for wild mustard greens and asparagus.

Summer for figs and wild fennel.

Fall is when truffle hunting begins, and chestnuts fall from the trees.

Below, I’ve listed some of my favorite dishes commonly found across the country that don’t include any pasta and almost no meat. Not only do I hope to help those looking for a pausa di glutine, but to shed light on the richness of vegetarian-friendly meals in this food-obsessed country.

Arguably, one of the best assets of Italian cuisine is that most fresh produce is delicious on its own. Pick a tomato from the garden, slice it, add a bit of olive oil, and sprinkle a pinch of salt. You’ve made the perfect summer snack without even touching a stove.

Italians eat seasonally and based on their region.

Knowing which foods are in season around your area will help you get the best tasting prodcuts for the time. You’ll also feel more connected to all the other people around you who are almost certainly eating the same thing you are. Seasonal eating connects us to our communities and builds a relationship not just with the suppliers but with the territory that nourishes our palates.

So study up on what’s ripe, and order dishes that feature local seasonal products to enjoy the fullest flavors Italy’s cuisine can offer.

Main Dishes

Canederli

Typical of the Dolomiti region of Trentino, these are essentially hearty dumplings that are formed with different vegetables and meats. Hearty and warm, they replenish the stomach after a long day of hiking or skiing in the Alps.

Gnudi

A Tuscan gnocchi-dumpling made with spinach and ricotta.

Polpette Cacio e Ova

Polpette are Italy’s word for meatballs, but can be made vegetarian just as easily. This version is typical of Abruzzo and combines cacio cheese with egg to make a delicious vegetarian alternative to the meatball.

Couscous

Most commonly found in the South of Italy, couscous demonstrates Italy’s cultural ties to North Africa. It’s typically mixed with other vegetables and found in rosticcerias or cafes.

Frittata

Italy’s version of the Spanish tortilla, frittata, is usually made with spinach and other veggies.

Melanzane alla Parmigiana

Eggplant Parmesan is commonly found across Southern Italy as a hearty, vegetarian main dish.

Polenta

Another Northern Italian staple, polenta is ground cornmeal that’s mixed with boiling water to create a sort of porridge. You most commonly find polenta mixed with melted cheese and bits of roast meat, but it’s just as easily made vegan.

Risotto

Northern Italy is more famous for its rice than its pasta. There are hundreds of ways to make risotto, and it’s easy to find in most restaurants, especially in the north.

Soups

Zuppa di Lenticchie

Found almost anywhere in Italy, lentil soup is simple and light on the stomach. Most people add bits of vegetables and potatoes for added flavor.

Ribollita

A Tuscan kale soup full of cabbage, cannellini beans, stale bread, and other vegetables. Ribollita is typically a cold-weather dish, but you can find it at many Tuscan Trattorias throughout the year.

Pappa al Pomodoro

Another Tuscan soup made with day-old bread! This time, the bread is simmered with tomato paste to make a thick, hearty soup.

Vellutata di Lattuga

This green purée is simply lettuce and onions sauteed in vegetable broth, then blended.

Macco di Fave

A Sicilian soup consisting of blended fava beans and fennel, two ingredients sure to ease digestion and freshen the palate.

Vegetables

Caprese

Found in any standard Italian establishment, especially during summer when tomatoes are the freshest.

Tomato and Cucumber Salad

Use this combination of fresh vegetables as a base for any Italian summer salad. Don’t forget the olive oil and salt! Add red onion and lettuce for a fuller mix.

Fennel and Orange Salad

Fennel, finocchio, is a refreshing root vegetable that eases digestion and cleanses the system. It grows wild in the Italian countryside, and its bitter taste balances some of Italy’s heartier dishes. The fennel and orange salad blends the acidity of citrus with the neutralizing palate of fennel, making a fresh and healthy side dish.

Grilled Vegetables

Offered at any trattoria or osteria in the country in the contorni (side dishes) section of the menu.

Giardiniera

Found house-made in many restaurants or in the canned food section of the grocery store, giardiniera is a mix of pickled vegetables that include cauliflower, carrot, onion, and radish.

Zucchiene Ripiene

While most common in Liguria and Tuscany, stuffed zucchini and other vegetables are found all over Italy, usually at a rosticceria, where other types of light, ready-made sides are found. Typically stuffed with an egg and ground beef mixture, they often come in vegetarian varieties as well and are more filling than you may think.

Caponata

Sicilian side dish of sauteed veggies typical to the island. Caponata is mostly eggplant, red pepper, green olives, capers, and tomato paste.

Pomodori al Riso con Patate al Forno

Whole tomatoes stuffed with seasoned rice and baked in the oven with sliced potatoes. Generously seasoned and genuinely filling in the late evenings of summer.

Fagioli all’Uccellato

Tuscany is famous for its cannellini beans, and this version uses them in a tomato sauce cooked with garlic, oil, and basil. Typically vegan, the dish is filling and heartwarming during cooler, rainy months.

Carciofi alla Romana

A typical Roman dish that’s completely carb-free: the roasted Roman artichoke.

Panzanella

A fresh summer salad consisting of chopped vegetables and stale bread mixed with lots of olive oil and lemon juice. Panzanella originates in Tuscany and is mostly consumed during hot summer months. The bread is soaked in olive oil and lemon juice, making it much lighter for a midday meal.

Fish and Meat

Insalata di Polpo

Potatoes, tomatoes, olives, and octopus. Insalata di polpo is most often found in coastal towns, especially on the Ligurian Sea. It’s simple, filling, and serves great as a light lunch before splashing back out into the Mediterranean.

Anchovies and Sardines

These oily fish are rich in nutrients and found all over the country for an aperitivo.

Baccalà Mantecato

This creamy dip, with the same name as the fish that makes it, is common in Northern Italy and typically served alone or with bread as an aperitivo.

Tartare

Typically made with raw cow meat, tuna, or salmon, tartare is a protein-dense dish that is fresh and filling.

Bresaola, Arugula, Light Cheese

Bresaola is a typical cold cut from the Northern Italian region of Valtellina. Made from cow instead of pork, it is less fatty than other cured meats and tastes great paired with arugula and a softer cheese like brie or capri.

Fruit

Melon and Prosciutto

You’ll know it’s officially summer when you start to see prosciutto e melone on the menu. This classic plate is best with freshly cut melon and macelleria-quality prosciutto.

Fig and Prosciutto

Once late summer arrives, and the figs ripen, swap your melon for something a little richer. This one goes great with brie cheese or toma.

Macedonia

Italian fruit salad with fresh seasonal fruits topped generously with whipped cream.

Street food

Arancini and Supplì

This iconic snack is a bit heavy due to the oil, but it offers a break from pasta without sacrificing the soul-satisfying flavor. Arancini are traditional to Sicily, but easily found even in the northernmost parts of the country.

Supplì are the Roman answer to Arancini. The main difference is that Supplì tend to feature typical Roman ingredients and sauces, while Arancini are distinctly Sicilian.

Both are traditionally made by packing day-old rice around a ragu. Another popular version is mozzarella and prosciutto cotto (ham and cheese).

Fritto Misto

An assortment of seasonal vegetables or catch-of-the-day fish fried in tempura batter. Typically served at aperitivo or late night time as a snack to hold you over for dinner or keep you going through the night.

Spiedini

Skewers of meat or vegetables roasted on an open grill. Always served hot, typically late into the night.

Farinata di Ceci

A baked type of pie made with crushed chickpeas. Typical of Liguria and found in most focaccerias.

Torta di Riso

Another item from Liguria that’s commonly found at a focacceria, the rice cake is, of course, vegan and easy to find across the Mediterranean coastal towns.

All photographs by Alyssa Richter. Used with permission.

Who hasn’t fantasized about the medieval life, wandering through stone villages, simple living, rustic and wholesome food. Ideally, we remain immune to ailments like consumption and plague. Outside Rome, beyond the Elysian fields, and through the La Valle dei Calanchi, Civita di Bagnoregio withstands the pressings of time atop a crumbling rock.

Accessible only by pedestrian bridge, the village stands alone atop steep ravines that dip into weaving canyons below. The city’s prolonged but imminent erosion gives it a rather dramatic image. Stacked atop steep cliffsides on all angles, Civita dramatically stands up against the expansive valleys beckoning below.

Formed 2,500 years ago by the Etruscans, ancient inhabitants who give Tuscia its name, Civita is known today as “The Dying City.”

What To See

A main point of reference in Civita is the Church of San Donato. The small Romanesque chapel invites quiet awe as light filters through delicate glass windows, illuminating religious relics and fresco remains.

While on the religious walk, follow the main road out of the square to venture beneath the cliff faces. Here you’ll find La Cappella della Madonna del Carcere. Hidden within what was originally an Etruscan-dug tomb, the underground worship site offers a look both at the village’s religious history and how drastically its buildings have integrated into the very cliffsides.

Whilst strolling through the streets, you’ll likely find your way to the Antico Frantoio, a 16th-century olive oil mill-turned restaurant that sells the agricola’s own olive oil and wine.

I imagine that centuries of candlelit dinners have been spent within the enchanting grotto. Even if you don’t stay for a drink, the owner, whose family has owned the mill for generations, is happy to offer a peek inside.

Where To Eat

As the warm smell of burning firewood drifts through alleyways, a meal made over open flame feels mood-appropriate. La Cantina di Ariana delivers with fire-grilled meats and vegetables in a rustic restaurant that matches the cozy, medieval atmosphere. Along with char-grilled meats, they cook up delicious regional dishes that change by the month to match seasonal availability. Local favorites include pappardelle al ragù bianco, cicorie fritte, and handmade ravioli.

During warmer months, they offer patio seating where you can watch the stray cats wander about, exchanging pets for food.

Should you be craving a simple and affordable place to post up, La Bottega del Nonno Leone makes fresh panini with locally supplied meat. They have a full drink selection from soda to craft beer and local wine.

Venture an hour outside the eternal city, and you’ll find one waiting to end. Until Civita officially returns to ruins, it remains as a relic of people from millennias past. From the innovative Etruscans, who dug the drainage systems to keep the city standing, to modern Italian construction and preservation initiatives that keep the city alive today. As long as it remains, Civita exists as a symbol of wonder, a revisitation to the idea that fantastical places still exist in this world.

Visitor Information

Open Daily 8:00 AM – 8:00 PM

Entrance Fee: €5

People still live here. Please respect that many of the beautiful places you’ll encounter and photograph are family homes passed down through generations. Treat them kindly.

All photographs by Alyssa Richter. Used with permission.